Preparation and application

Preparing the substrate before sealing

A sealing job that goes wrong is almost never the sealer's fault. Five things to check before you open the pack - and why the order matters.

Block paving with a washed darker section and a dusty pale section

When sealing goes wrong - patchy, uneven, or gone after one season - the cause almost always lies before the preparation went on, not in the preparation. The substrate was dirty, wet, too fresh or too cold. Here are five things to check, in the order in which they matter.

Five conditions, in order

  • Clean

    A sealer soaks in together with whatever it finds. Efflorescence, cement laitance and grease have to go first.

  • Dry

    Not 'dry on the surface' but dry in the pores. Every sealer has a set maximum substrate moisture.

  • Cured

    Fresh concrete and paving have to give up their mixing water - for some products that takes up to 28 days.

  • Within the temperature window

    Every product has its temperature range - outside it the result can be weaker.

  • Tested on a patch

    One slab somewhere out of sight settles what no description can.

1. Clean - because a sealer fixes what it finds

This is the condition that costs the most when skipped. The preparation soaks into the pores together with bloom, grease and dust, and then shuts them in underneath. Removing a stain from under a sealed layer means stripping that layer.

Each kind of soiling has its own preparation: lime efflorescence is dissolved with an acid, greasy stains with a degreaser, and cement laitance from the build needs a preparation of its own. If you have several problems at once: grease first, mineral deposits second, then rinse.

2. Dry - deeper than it looks

A surface can look dry while the pores are still full of water after washing or rain. A sealer that meets wet pores does not penetrate as it should - hence patches and an uneven finish.

When in doubt, wait longer - rushing usually shows in the result.

Five pictograms showing successive surface-preparation steps
The order of work: wash, rinse, dry, test a patch, seal.

How long to wait before you start

SituationWhat you are waiting forWhere to check
Freshly laid paving or poured concreteSubstrate curingThe sealer's technical data - 'substrate curing'
After washing with a chemical preparationRinsing and full dryingThe cleaner's instructions - dwell time and how to rinse
After rainThe pores drying, not just the surfaceThe sealer's technical data - maximum substrate humidity
A second coat of sealerThe interval between coatsThe sealer's technical data - interval between coats

3. Cured - fresh concrete is still working

For many weeks after laying, concrete and concrete paving give up their mixing water. A sealer applied too early closes that route, and the result is sometimes efflorescence trapped under the layer.

The curing time depends on the preparation - for some sealers it is 28 days. Do not cut it short by feel.

5. The test patch - fifteen minutes that save a weekend

Only a test will show how your paving reacts to a particular preparation - material varies by batch, by age and by what has been on it already. Put the preparation on one slab somewhere not visible from the street and judge it once fully dry - not before, because a wet substrate looks different.

With wet-look sealers the test is not optional, because the effect cannot be undone.

Common questions

Does paving that looks clean still need washing?

Not if it is new and carries no bloom or building residue. Do sweep off sand and dust, though - that is usually what decides whether the preparation soaks in evenly.

How do I check the substrate is dry enough?

A simple test is taping a sheet of plastic down for a few hours: condensation underneath means the pores are still damp. That is a rough method - where a maximum substrate humidity is given as a percentage for the preparation, a moisture meter gives you a reliable reading.

Can I seal in full sun?

Better not. On a hot surface the preparation evaporates before it can penetrate. Seal in the morning or evening, when the substrate is cooler, and keep within the upper temperature limit given for the preparation.

Is a second coat necessary?

On an absorbent substrate, often yes - the next coat then goes on wet on wet. The number of coats depends on the preparation and on how much the material drinks.

What should I do if the sealer came out patchy?

Establish the cause first, because it decides whether another coat will even it out or whether the preparation has to come off. Uneven absorbency, damp pores and leftover soiling each look different. Write to us with a description and a photograph - we answer within 24 hours.

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