Choosing a product

How to choose a block paving sealer

There is no single sealer that suits all paving - there is the right one for yours. The three decisions that point to it, compared on the specifics: price, coverage and finish.

Grey herringbone block paving seen from above

Choosing a sealer for block paving comes down to three questions: should the paving change appearance, should the product be water- or solvent-based, and what state is the surface in today. The answers narrow our range from twenty-eight products to two or three.

Which block paving sealer is best

The short answer: there is no universal one. The best one is the sealer matched to your paving, the finish you want and your budget.

Compare products on what is measurable: price per litre, coverage and, from those two, the cost per square metre. That is the figure that settles it on a hundred-square-metre drive, and the one you rarely see on a shelf - so we work it out for you on every product page and show it beside the price.

How long sealing lasts depends on the substrate, the preparation, the traffic and the weather, so rather than looking for a ranking of "strength of protection", match the product to your surface and conditions. Stuck between two? Write to us.

In short

  • The finish decides how it looks, not how it protects.

    Invisible leaves the colour alone. A wet look deepens it permanently - that is not reversible without stripping the layer.

  • The base decides how you work, not how good the product is.

    Water-based is easier to handle and smells less. Solvent-based needs a dry substrate and ventilation.

  • The state of the paving decides the order of work.

    Efflorescence and stains have to go first - a sealer fixes whatever it finds.

  • New paving has to wait.

    New paving has to cure first - for some products up to 28 days.

First decision: invisible or wet look

This is the only one of the three you can see from the end of the drive. An invisible sealer is meant not to change the colour - once dry, the paving looks as it did. A wet-look sealer deepens the colour the way rain does, except it stays. It is not a setting you can turn back.

If you are torn between them, settle it on a patch behind the house rather than on the drive facing the street. Many ranges come in both versions - great examples are HK-1 and HK-2 from CTS Chemistry: you choose the finish alone and stay with a proven range.

Grey block paving with a dry half and a darker saturated half
The same paving: dry on the left, colour-deepened on the right.

Finish: what to pick and when

FinishHow the paving looksWhen it makes sense
InvisibleNo change of colour or sheenNew paving whose colour you like; anything visible from the street
Wet lookColour deepened, as after rainPaving faded by sun; evening out the shade after repairs
ColouringColour changed, covering uneven shadeOlder paving with colour patches that washing did not lift

Second decision: water- or solvent-based

This difference is mostly about the work, not the class of product. Water-based preparations smell less and go on more easily - usually the choice for someone doing the drive themselves over a weekend. Solvent-based ones need a dry substrate and airflow, and their temperature window tends to be narrower.

See the water-based and solvent-based sealers. The Technical data tab on every product gives the application temperature, the drying time and the substrate curing period - check them before you buy.

Third decision: what state the paving is in

Paving straight after a build almost always carries cement laitance, and paving a few seasons old carries efflorescence, green growth or oil stains. Each needs a different cleaner; you will find the right one under cleaning and restoration.

New surfaces call for patience. Concrete and paving have to cure first - for some preparations the required time is as much as 28 days.

How much to buy

Coverage is given in square metres per litre and it is always a range rather than a single figure: absorbent paving drinks more than dense paving. The calculator on the product page turns the area and the absorbency of the substrate into litres and packs.

Buy one pack more than the sum says. Topping up two weeks later means a different batch, and with colouring preparations the difference in shade between batches can show.

Common questions

Does block paving have to be sealed?

There is no obligation, and unsealed paving still does its job. Sealing does, however, limit how much the surface absorbs and helps dirt come off.

How long after laying can new paving be sealed?

Once the substrate has cured - for some preparations that is 28 days. Plan the work around the time given for the sealer you choose.

Does an invisible sealer really change nothing?

It does not change the colour - that is what it is for. On very absorbent, matt paving it can deepen the shade slightly because it fills the pores, so try it on a small patch first.

Water- or solvent-based - which is better?

Neither, as a rule - they differ in working conditions. Water-based goes on more easily and smells less; solvent-based needs a dry substrate and ventilation.

Will a sealer protect paving against frost or salt?

Some can - those whose resistance to salt and freeze-thaw cycles is confirmed by testing to a standard. If your drive is salted in winter, look for that on the product page.

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