An engine oil stain differs from most soiling in that it does not stay on the surface. Concrete and concrete paving are porous, the oil goes into those pores, and after a few days it sits several millimetres down. Washing what you can see then only takes off the top of the stain.
Two rules follow. First: time is against you - a fresh stain comes out incomparably more easily. Second: you need a preparation that pulls the oil out of the pores, not one that dissolves it and spreads it wider.
In short
Oil soaks in, it does not lie on top.
Which is why a pressure washer on its own is usually not enough.
A fresh stain is blotted first.
Sand, sawdust or cat litter pull up what has not yet gone deep.
Then a degreasing preparation.
Stick to the dwell time and dilution given for the product.
A mark may remain.
The older and deeper the stain, the more likely it is to leave a faint shadow.
Three situations, three responses
| When | What to do first | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh stain, still glossy | Cover with an absorbent, sweep up, then degrease | Usually can be brought back to no visible mark |
| A few days old | Degreaser per the instructions, repeat if needed | Usually a clear improvement, sometimes a faint shadow |
| Old, washed many times | Degreaser, then judge whether to go further | A mark may remain; at worst, replacing the unit |
What to use
For greasy soiling you have three proven preparations: OL-1 CTS Chemistry, a ready-to-use cleaner made specifically for oil stains on concrete and paving; D-12 CTS Chemistry concentrate for very heavy organic soiling; and Net'Guard Ultra, a degreaser and cleaner for terraces and drives that also deals with grease and tyre marks.
Each is used slightly differently - check the dilution, dwell time and rinsing in the product's technical data. OL-1 is strongly alkaline, so wear gloves and safety glasses when you work with it.
Preparations for greasy soiling
Degreasers and cleaners for oil, grease and other organic stains.
PremiumTravertine sealer, wet look ST-2 CTS Chemistry
121,70 zł
121,70 zł/L≈ 6,09 zł/m²
PremiumTravertine sealer, invisible finish ST-1 CTS Chemistry
61,40 zł
61,40 zł/L≈ 3,07 zł/m²
PremiumMarble sealer, wet look SM-2 CTS Chemistry
121,70 zł
121,70 zł/L≈ 6,09 zł/m²
PremiumMarble sealer, invisible finish SM-1 CTS Chemistry
61,40 zł
61,40 zł/L≈ 3,07 zł/m²
PremiumPolished granite sealer, wet look SG-2 CTS Chemistry
121,70 zł
121,70 zł/L≈ 6,09 zł/m²
PremiumPolished granite sealer, invisible finish SG-1 CTS Chemistry
61,40 zł
61,40 zł/L≈ 3,07 zł/m²
What comes next
Once the stain is gone and the surface has dried, consider sealing. A sealer limits water uptake, so the next time something leaks the oil soaks into the pores more slowly, and you gain time to lift it before it leaves a mark.
If you are moving on to sealing, start with preparing the substrate - degreaser left in the pores is one of the reasons a sealer comes out patchy.
Common questions
Can an oil stain be removed completely?
With a fresh stain, usually yes. With an old one that has soaked in deep and been washed many times, a faint shadow can remain - it comes down to how porous the substrate is and how long the oil sat in it.
Will baking soda or washing-up liquid do?
On a fresh, shallow stain they sometimes do. Oil that has entered the pores needs a preparation that draws it out from deeper in the material - one with a set dilution and dwell time.
Will a degreaser damage the paving?
No - provided your substrate is on the product's list of substrates and you follow the instructions. Take particular care with limestone and marble: if they are not on the list, choose another preparation or write to us.
Will sealing prevent oil stains?
It helps, but it is no substitute for acting quickly. Some sealers are oleophobic - they limit how far oil soaks in; you will find them under a filter of their own.
